Into the Woodinville Wonderland

Chateau Ste. Michelle in Woodinville -- or is it France?
Photo by Meg McKenzie

Imagine a city of theme parks -- as if such a thing existed! -- and there were two gi-normous ones right across the street from each other! One would be named Disney World, the other Universal Studios. The two parks are almost identical. Almost. One is the stately original, greeting guests with classic castles and tradition. The other is a brash clone, beckoning visitors with new-fangled rides like Harry's Wizarding World. Oh, and classic castles and slightly less extensive tradition.

Such was my dilemma upon turning onto Route 202 in Woodinville, Washington. Left led to Universal, I mean Columbia Winery, and to the right was the big dog, Chateau Ste. Michelle. Being Idaho Wine Girl meant there were good reasons to visit both: Ascentia Wines owns Columbia Winery AND Ste. Chapelle, the local big dog in Idaho. On the other hand, several of Idaho's best winemakers have made wine at Ste. Michelle, among them Melanie Krause, whose Cinder Wines just outside of Boise have been garnering awards by the barrelful. Plus, with its long, French-looking avenue leading to its large, French-looking buildings, Ste. Michelle had the edge in grandiosity. I turned right.

The entrance to Ste. Michelle's tasting room
Photo by Meg McKenzie

It was a cold, damp day at the end of November when I made my pilgrimage -- great for evocative photos of fog but not so much for hanging out on their impeccably groomed grounds. I scurried inside and what did my wondering eyes behold? A huge hall of merchandise, lavishly strewn with Christmas baubles, and beyond that, the many tasting rooms of Michelle, which was founded in 1934 and is the oldest winery in Washington state, though I guarantee the building is more recent. 

I was there for the wine, not the wine-themed dog sweaters, so I kept heading back, past the wall of single varietals (where I had a cute but rather awkward exchange with a Japanese tasting room employee named Ritsuko) to a barrel room where a tour was just ending at the bar. There were barrels reribboned for the holidays, a glowing Christmas tree and a bizarre yet cool little enclave encased in glass where the Col Solare wines, a pricey collaboration with Italy's Antinori, are meant to be tasted at premium prices.

Holiday-decorated barrels
Photo by Meg McKenzie

Since I wasn't part of the tour, the blonde gal behind the bar just totally ignored me. Finally, a girl sitting at the cash register scared up a person to serve me -- Ritsuko! 

Rit, as I will shamelessly refer to her, ushered me back into the other room, shook me down for the $10 tasting fee and gave me a menu of four wines to try. I opted for their sparkling (2005 Luxe, $23 a bottle retail) since I'd read it had bested France's finest Champagnes in a blind tasting. I have to say, it was fine. 

Ritsuko pouring at Ste. Michelle
Photo by Meg McKenzie

As I was mulling my next choice, a rich-looking couple from California (I knew, because they told Rit, "We're from California!") arrived at the bar, and Rit went over and spent time with them. I heard her mutter something about a Reserve tasting they could sign up for, and they departed. Then she came back to me and poured my next request, the 2008 Indian Wells Chardonnay ($18 retail). No mention was made of Reserve tasting to moi. I felt like I'd just been pre-qualified, like at a car lot. (I would have paid, honest!)

To her credit, Rit was knowledgeable and polite -- she whipped out a huge laminated map to show me where Ste. Michelle sources it grapes (Columbia Valley, out near Walla Walla) and even slipped me an extra taste of the 2007 Cold Creek Merlot in addition to the two reds I tried (the $25 2008 Mourvedre and $30 CSM Red Wine blend, both of which were earthy and jammy and all those good things Washington wines are meant to be). The $30 Merlot was also very good.

The wrap-around porch at Columbia Winery in Woodinville
Photo by Meg McKenzie

However, similar to the feeling you have when departing Space Mountain through the Space Mountain gift shop, I was itching to get onto the next ride, so I took my leave and hightailed it across the street to Columbia. It was equally huge and grand, though a little less French chateau and a little more Southfork Ranch. Outside, a cute chef was cooking crostini at a 600-degree oven, and I stopped and chatted with Joshua, who is getting his degree in sustainable practices and was really nice and friendly. Inside, the tasting room was smaller, but equally as gift-laden as Ste. Michelle. And there at the bar was the California couple! Arrgh!

I went back outside and asked a passing workman what the enormous building next-door was that I could see through the trees. He told me it was the Red Hook brewery which served great food. It being lunchtime, I decided to postpone my Columbia experience and go have brats and beer at Red Hook. Which I did, and it was cheap and delicious. (Word to the wise: the restaurant is way in the back of the brewery by the delivery docks, so don't park in the front and walk a mile through the cold like I did.)

The restaurant at Red Hook - yum!
Photo by Meg McKenzie

Returning later to Columbia, after warming myself at their crackling fireplace, I was greeted warmly at the bar, given an industry discount for my bloggery and treated to an assortment of their wines. They were apparently having a case sale for the wine club, because right next to me was a crowd of members who were getting the full treatment from the other bar man -- "This one is going to literally talk to you!" he advised them. "When I come back, I'll find out what it said!"

I tried Columbia's 2009 Viognier, which was almost overpowering in its floral/orange blossom goodness ($26 retail), its 2010 Rose of Syrah (again, a big floral nose of roses and strawberries, $20) and the 2009 Sangiovese, which had the cherry thing going on ($30). They didn't speak to me (in English, anyway) but all smelled and tasted very good.

Columbia Winery display ... there's that California couple!
Photo by Meg McKenzie

So which was the best in Woodinville? Neither of these behemoths, I have to say. They were both very good, but a little lacking in that intimate winery feel I crave. You'll have to wait till my next posting to find out -- coming to the blog soon, I promise!

Chateau Ste. Michelle
14111 NE 145th, Woodinville, WA 98072
(425) 415-3300, www.ste-michelle.com
Head winemaker: Bob Bertheau

☻☻☻ Chateau Ste. Michelle Wine Estates has all the bells and whistles, including a bit of a snobby attitude, which I guess some wine geeks crave, but not me. It's a lovely destination during the holidays -- all it needed was a dusting of snow to look postcard perfect. They offer a four-grape experience except for that $10 tasting fee -- ouch!!! I guess the pained grimace as I pulled out my ten-spot disqualified me from being asked to join their Vintage Reserve Club!

"The wine will talk to you!" 
Columbia Winery, Woodinville
Photo by Meg McKenzie

Columbia Winery
14030 NE 145th St, Woodinville, WA 98072

(425) 488-2776, www.columbiawinery.com
Winemaker: Kerry Norton

 ☻☻☻☻ Columbia Winery was founded in 1962 and touts itself as Washington's first PREMIUM winery. Not sure what that means, but they welcomed me with an industry discount, which means they'll probably cut a nice deal for most people on bottles and cases of their premium wines. Their tasting room with its wide wooden porch and crackling fire reminded me of a fancy ski chalet. Nice!


Note: My ratings are based one grape for poor and five for excellent and are based on accessibility, ambiance, overall experience and, of course, the wines.

Walla Walla Bing Bang! Part I

School is now in session (wine school, that is!)
Photo by Meg McKenzie

"I told the witch doctor I was in love with you ... And he said oo ee oo ah ah, ting tang, walla walla bing bang ..." 

So goes the old Doctor Demento song, and so it goes in the wine town of Walla Walla, Wash., which I am in love with, because what other place are there 170 wineries vying for your attention? You heard me right, folks: One-seven-oh. They're down for the count in W-W. Which, incidentally, reminded me a lot of D-W in Orlando, Epcot to be exact. Note to the Walla Walla Vally Wine Alliance: Get a monorail to woosh us along Route 12. It would save a lot of time getting from one amazing wine temple to the next.

Belly up to the bar at L'Ecole
Photo by Meg McKenzie

But I digress. Back in October, I took a little sojourn to the Oregon Coast (where I did make a pitstop in Willamette Valley -- I'll save Pinot World for another posting), but planned an extra day to detour to W-W on my back to Boise. Unfortunately, most of the day was eaten up on I-84 getting from Point A (Cannon Beach) to Point B (the wineries of Walla Walla), so I didn't arrive till about 3 p.m. Which gave me exactly two-and-a-half hours to sample all the wine I could and still stay on the right side of the road. So without even pausing to check in to my room at the Holiday Inn Express, I hit the ground running on my way into town -- and luckily, I was armed with a map. Unfortunately, I had to make it home to my Real Job the next day, so the East Side and South Side tasting rooms will have to wait for another time.

Study your wine before recess
Photo by Meg McKenzie

As it happens so often, however, my first stop was my best stop. Not to say that I'd have missed trying the other wines I sampled after L'Ecole No. 41's wide array of unbelievable vintages in their oh-so-charming converted schoolhouse (which was so picture perfect, it really did resemble something from Epcot) but there you have it: L'Ecole est fantastique.

Not only were the 15 wines-- especially the "white label" ones made from Seven Hills Vineyard grapes -- super scrumptious, but the atmosphere in the second-floor tasting room was convivial yet respectful. I met a charming couple from Seattle who helped guide me through the long list of wines, which range in price from the $49 2008 Estate Perigee -- an intricate blend of the usual suspects: Cab Sauv, Cab Franc, Merlot, Malbec that will make you swoon -- to the $13 2009 Semillon from Columbia Valley. 

L'Ecole No. 41

41 Lowden School Road
P.O. Box 111
Lowden, WA 99360

Phone (509) 525-0940

 Wood

Owners: Megan and Martin Clubb
Winemakers: Martin Clubb and Mike Sharon

☻☻☻☻☻

Easy off, easy on the busy Highway 12 (watch out for those speeding cement trucks - yowch!), A lovely, old-fashioned, impeccably redone tasting room with a long bar and seemingly endless varieties of luscious wines. $5 tasting fee. Knowledgeable pourers. Open daily, 10 a.m.-5 p.m. (closed Thanksgiving and Christmas). Everything a tasting room should be in this most perfect of wine worlds.

The old farmhouse by the side of Route 12 is really a winery
Photo by Meg McKenzie

A little way west of The School of Wine is the more modest Woodward Canyon Winery. Located in an old farmhouse that reminded me of the one that landed on the witch in "The Wizard of Oz," this winery reeks of "the real deal" -- a started-from-the-ground-up, 20-year-old business that earns your respect with their small-batch Merlots, Cabernets, Chardonnays and Sauvignon Blancs. Young pourer Eric was a little taciturn at first, but I warmed him up with my non-stop banter, and he was soon suggesting a restaurant for dinner -- the White House Crawford, which I did go to; more on that later. Their current releases range from the $79 2008 "Old Vines" Cabernet (yummy) to the $20 2008 Nelms Road Merlot (ditto).

Welcome to Woodward Canyon Winery
Photo by Meg McKenzie

Woodward Canyon Winery
11920 W. Highway 12
Lowden, Wash. 99360
(509) 525.4129

Owners: Rick Small and Darcy Fugman-Small
Winemaker: Kevin Mott

☻☻☻

It's the first tasting room you come to after Umatilla, a slightly fusty low-key farmhouse with some seriously good wines sourced from estate and Washington grapes. $5 tasting fee. Open daily, 10 a.m.-5 p.m. (closed Thanksgiving and Christmas). 

Next post: I venture along Old Highway 12 to some ornate, new-fangled wineries. (Thar's money in them-thar hills...)

Ratings go from one grape (poor) to five (excellent) and are based on accessibility, ambiance, overall experience and, of course, the wine.

A visit to Cold Springs Winery

Bill and Bing Ringert at their Cold Springs Winery
Photo by Meg McKenzie

When Cold Springs took gold this week for their Astrology Merlot, the first thing I thought was, it couldn't have happened to nicer people. Bill and Bing Ringert have been quietly running their winery out in Hammett for the past 10 years and are some of the pioneers of the Idaho wine movement. They were so very gracious to me on my recent swing through the eastern part of the Snake River AVA wine trail (more on that later) I cheered when Andy Perdue announced their gold as one of the Wine Press Northwest’s first awards of the day at the blind tasting held Columbus Day at Ste. Chapelle in Caldwell.

The next thing I thought was: Where can I get some of that wine right away (Boise being a good hour’s drive from Hammett)? My first thought was the Garden City Fred Meyer on State Street across from the racetrack (it’s at 5425 Chinden, in case anyone’s interested). Why? Its selection of Idaho wines had impressed me (it’s a big, spacious section next to the produce, not stuck over by the frozen meats like at the other store), and so had their prices.

And I was not disappointed. Friendly and officious wine steward Austin Drehmel led me over to the Cold Springs’ display, and they did have the '07 Merlot (hooray!) And at a good price, too. (I think I paid $12 per bottle.)

Coming up the hill to the winery
Photo by Meg McKenzie

But back to my vineyard visit. If you read my Holesinsky posting, you’ll recall it was 4 o’clock by the time I hit the road from Buhl, and I was really pushing it to get to Cold Springs by closing time at 5 (I’d decided to catch them on the flip side, since even Idaho Wine Girls have their limits when it comes to tasting wine before breakfast). But as luck wouldn’t have it, the on-ramp to the highway was closed at Buhl, so I had to drive 30 miles east to Jerome to get on I-84! I knew I wouldn’t make it, so I called ahead to the winery, and thankfully heard they would stay open for me if I got there soon. So I floored it (luckily no ISP were in the area that day)!

One thing that was in my favor: Unlike some vineyards that are tucked away up impenetrable mazes of country roads, it’s really easy to find: “COLD SPRINGS” is writ huge -- bigger than a billboard -- on the roof of their wine shed. I was raising dust clouds up the dirt road through their acres of vines, and there at the top was an unprepossessing, but very welcome sight: their sunny tasting room and winery.

Beth Ringert with award-winning Merlot
Photo by Meg McKenzie

Waiting for me inside was a double delight: the owners themselves, Bill and Bing! The only people missing were their daughter, Beth, who designs their lovely new labels, and Jamie Martin, their obviously very talented master winemaker. 

Later on, however, at a pouring at Fred Meyer in Garden City, I had the opportunity to talk to Beth and get the skinny on her scientific/artistic labels. She's a delight: down to earth and fun to chat with. And I have to tell you: their Astrology Merlot just got better and better with every taste. Right up there with the finest of (mystical Washington wine country) Walla Walla.

I really enjoyed getting to know the Ringerts. But enough about me: Go see for yourself.

Cold Springs Winery
7853  W. Ringert Lane
Hammett, ID 83627208.366.7993 email: vino@coldspringswinery.com

Owners: Bill and Bing Ringert

Winemaker: Jamie Martin

☻☻☻☻

Easy to find: just look to the left as you come over the hill to Hammett from Boise: The huge sign on their roof will just smack you in the face. The tasting room is comfy and cozy, the Ringerts and their help are just as friendly and unassuming as you could find (and Bill is a lawyer! Showing there’s an exception to every rule). Their wines are great, and fairly priced. Open Saturday-Sunday from noon to 5 p.m. or by appointment. $5 tasting fee applied to purchase.

My ratings go from one grape (poor) to five (excellent) and are based on accessibility, ambiance, overall experience and, of course, the wines.

A visit to Holesinsky Winery

Welcome to the winery (cool sign)
Photo by Meg McKenzie

I happened upon James Holesinsky's delightful winery near the end of a grueling day of tasting wine (I know ... but someone's got to do it!) on my tour of the Twin Falls area, in which I covered five vineyards in one day. I had actually arranged to visit the weekend before but then scheduling problems intervened. This time when I called I got no reply, so I was taking a chance in making the side trip to Buhl on my way back to Boise from Hagerman. Unbelievably (for me), I didn't get lost finding his place south of I-84 and west of Twin Falls.

And in a further stroke of luck, Holesinsky was hosting a bus tour, and the winery was not only open, it was hopping! (James has a lovely deck behind the tiny tasting room, and a local investment club was making merry in the back as I tentatively lurked around in the front). But James' helper found me, summoned JH himself, and the rest of the hour went by quickly as he charmingly opened bottle after bottle of his certified organic wines for me to try.

James Holesinsky with his tasty organic wines
Photo by Meg McKenzie

Now I'd tasted samples of JH's wine at the Capital City Market in Boise, and couldn't reach much of an opinion from the tiny cupful. But with a bigger serving, and a freshly opened bottle -- and the winemaker himself right in front of me ... wow, what a difference.

James has whimsically named vintages (Octopus, Unicorn, etc.) and quirkily designed bottles (Tweedle Dum and Tweedle Dee), as well as a disarmingly off-the-cuff attitude, but let me say this: his wines are totally, seriously good. Especially that 2009 Fat Men Merlot -- at $15-18 a bottle retail, quite the light and spicy, crowd-pleasing bargain. He also has a new Unicorn Syrah Rose that has been garnering raves and awards.

A tour group enjoys food and beverages at Holesinsky's
Photo by Meg McKenzie

He told me he produces a couple thousand cases a year, and ages his wines in 100 percent French oak, and it ferments in the barrel. He's also dedicated to running an organic vineyard -- no pesticides here.

Though his attention was divided between his paying guests and the unannounced interloper -- me! -- James was gracious and lovely. In fact, he invited me to hang around till after the bus tour left so we could chat further, but I was on a mission to make it to Cold Springs Winery before it closed at 5 o'clock, so I reluctantly took my leave. But here's a promise, James -- I'll be back, with a group!

Holesinsky's Vineyard and Winery

4477 Valley Steppe Drive

Buhl, ID 83316

(208) 543-6940

Kelsey Swope and Dustin Jones
pour JH wine in downtown Boise
Photo by Meg McKenzie

☻☻☻☻☻ James' tasting room schedule is a little uncertain (in general, it's best to call ahead), but if you can't make it to Buhl, he's reaching out to an eager wine-drinking public from his remote (albeit charming) outpost by manning booths at several area farmer's markets (Boise, Sun Valley, etc.). I'm here to tell you, though, a trip to his vineyard makes a big difference in enjoying his product, which includes some first-class (organic!) wines (i.e., the 2009 Fat Men Merlot), and a lovely, friendly vibe.  

My ratings go from one grape (poor) to five (excellent), and are based on accessibility, ambiance, overall experience and, of course, the wines.

A Visit to Bitner Vineyards

The Bitners' terrace
Photo by Meg McKenzie

Bitner Vineyards has the loveliest setting in Canyon County. Period. Every time I come over that hill on Plum Road (and I’ve done so several times on my way to various other wineries in Caldwell, such as Koenig and Huston), and look over at the Bitners’ winery and patio perched on the sun-drenched hillside with their acres of grapes marching in neat rows below, I’m, like, ahhhhhhhh.

I responded as well to their unprepossessing signage and the leisurely drive up that amazing hill, among the vines, up, up, up to the winery. It’s something, I feel, that every winemaker would give his or her left arm for. Though, of course, the experience ultimately depends on what awaits at the top of the hill.

Ron Bitner, right, with Walt Varnes and Silvia Marroquin
Photo by Meg McKenzie

In this case, I was anxiously hoping vineyard owners Ron and Mary Bitner would be there. At various vineyards the previous week, I kept hearing that the world-traveling Bitners were out of town, visiting vineyards in Spain, so I was taking a risk that they would be there. (Is it just me, or does a missing winemaker remove a big part of the equation, especially when visiting a small, boutique winery?)

Pulling into the shaded parking area next to the tasting room, I spied a tired-looking man watering the flowers in the garden. Acting on a hunch, I asked, “Mr. Bitner?” It was! He greeted me warmly, if a little wanly, volunteering that he and his wife had just got back from Spain. I know! I wanted to shout. I also knew from his website that he's an entomologist (bug scientist) by trade, has been growing grapes for 30 years and has been enthusiastically pushing the Idaho wine industry for the past 10 -- he even testified before Congress!

Mary Bitner, at the winery
Photo by Meg McKenzie

I eagerly took him up on his invitation to check out the tasting room and some of the Bitner/Koenig offerings (the Bitners grow the grapes while winemaker/neighbor Greg Koenig crafts the vintages). Though the view from their terrace was sublime, it was a brutally hot afternoon, so the cool confines of the tasting room suited me just fine. Behind the wooden bar, pourers Walt Varnes and Silvia Marroquin were pleasant and knowledgeable -- Walt even showed me how to "chew" the wine as you taste it, though he admitted that you make some pretty weird faces (and noises) doing so. Silvia urged me to try Mary's new addition to the Bitner lineup, the 2008 Menopause Merlot, but I guess I couldn't get past the name. But I liked the Bitners' Cabernet very much (their 2005 vintage got a gold medal at the 2008 Idaho Wine Festival) and enjoyed the pleasant, low-key companionship of the two amiable pourers. As I was leaving, I met the sweet-faced Mary, who also runs a bed-and-breakfast property, and although she grimaced ("I haven't had a chance to get my hair done since I got back!") she graciously consented to having her picture taken.

The winery is at the top of the hill.
Photo by Meg McKenzie

Bitner Vineyards
16645 Plum Road
Caldwell, ID 83607

(208) 455-1870, www.bitnervineyards.com

Owners: Ronnie and Mary Bitner
Winemaker: Greg Koenig

☻☻☻☻☻ That view! OMG, even if the wines tasted like vinegar (which they definitely do not), I think I'd still award the Bitners five grapes just because their winery looks exactly as you would want a winery to look. But their wines were uniformly good. And the hilltop paradise is easy to find and get to (just turn left down Plum Road, heading west on Homedale). The winery is comfortable and cute. And though tired from a recent journey abroad, the owners were present and accounted for when I visited -- and gracious, to boot. No tasting fee. Open Friday-Sunday, noon to 5 p.m.

My ratings go from one grape (poor) to five (excellent), based on accessibility, ambiance, overall experience and, of course, the wines.